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Finding the Spomeniks

Pre-Trip Research

During the initial planning stages of my trip, one of the decisions I made from the start was that I was NOT going to go to the Balkans blindly, not knowing where the spomeniks were. I wanted to be able to know where to go and where to find each of them once I got over there in order to avoid struggling through getting lost in a part of the world I did not know and attempting to communicate with people whose language I did not speak. Unfortunately, for the vast majority of spomeniks, little to no information existed online describing their exact locations. As such, I was forced to be more creative in my search for them.

I started my sleuthing using Jan Kempenaers late-2000s photo-set. While Kempenaers does not describe the location of the spomeniks in his work, when referencing each spomenik, he does name them by the town or village which they are most closely settled near. These were my first clues. With knowing the closest towns or villages, I then accessed those regions via satellite view on Google Maps, then, scoured the countrysides looking for them. Thankfully, most of them are quite large and strangely shape, so, on satellite imagery, they tended to stand out quite prominently if you knew what you were looking for. Using this method, over the course of about 3 weeks of diligent meticulous searching, I was able to pinpoint the exact location and coordinates for about 40 of the spomenik I intended to visit.

Google Maps aerial view of Kozara

My car stuck in a dirt road near Kozara, Bosnia.

Navigating On the Ground

Once I arrived in the Balkans, it was my intention that finding the spomeniks would be as easy as typing the GPS coordinates I had collected beforehand into my car's satellite navigation system and I would get led right to the monuments. While this admittedly worked very well in some circumstances, to say it was ALWAYS that simple is an extreme overstatement. While GPS may work very well in some areas of the Balkans and in some cities, I cannot stress enough that it will NOT work in all places and in all cities. Many spomeniks are in extremely remote areas, far off the beaten path, and in many of these places, the GPS cannot be counted on. It will try to direct you on non-existent roads, dirt-road 2-track 'shortcuts', unnecessarily long routes, etc, etc, etc. I found it was extremely important to review your route in detail before following it, and never to follow a suspicious looking road simply because my GPS said to follow it.

In many cases, it almost felt as though many of the spomeniks did not want to be found. They often exist on unmarked roads, in the middle of nowhere, on the tops of mountains, far from any other soul. Simply finding them can be an experience, so properly doing your homework and research before attempting to visit them can mean the difference between success and failure. One of my most notable navigation experiences for me happened while attempting to find the Kozara spomenik in northern Bosnia... my GPS routed me from the highway onto a smaller road, and I naively followed. After not too long, the road turned to muddy dirt and followed a stream through a steep valley -- however, on the GPS map, it looked as though the monument was SO CLOSE, so I stupidly pushed on further. Before you know it, I got my little Toyota stuck in the middle of nowhere in the forest in the hinterlands of Bosnia. I thought I was doomed. I seriously considered giving up all hope and just abandoning the car and leaving the country. However, walking back down the road several kilometers, I spotted a family eating dinner at a picnic table in front of their home. With my fingers crossed, I approached. To my delight, two of them spoke English amazingly well. They were able to assemble for me a rag-tag team of locals who, with the help of a what looked like a 70 year old tractor, pulled my car out and I was saved. The situation turned from near disaster to one of the most memorable moments of my time in Bosnia, if not the entire trip. I was extremely lucky, as not only could I have slid into the stream and died, I could have continued even deeper into the forest, stranded and unable to find help.

While I found using GPS on my trip to be invaluable, I tell this story as a testament of what can happen if you blindly follow your GPS in these parts of the Balkans, -- an area that is unfortunately not as properly mapped as it probably should be for GPS navigation. In addition, there are many labyrinthine type cities in the Balkans such as Sarajevo, Priština, Mitrovica, etc, which are extremely complicated to navigate, especially for someone who is unfamiliar with them. As such, in these places, GPS might not be sufficient by itself to guide you through optimal routes, road closings, dangerous areas, etc, so, I found it useful to always ask lots of questions of my hostel and hotel hosts before attempting to navigate though a complicated city. Gathering that essential on-the-ground local knowledge and advice is something all the GPS navigating and pre-trip online map research will never be able to compare to or equal. Also, if you can have a buddy with you along on the trip to do secondary navigation, that would more than likely double your success rate!

One of the main purposes behind making this website was so that other people wanting to find these spomeniks themselves will never have to go through all the trouble, time and turmoil I had to go through and order to find them. If you are so ambitious as to explore the spomeniks on your own, I very much hope you use and employ the navigation and map information I have compiled here on this website so you can have the most optimal, relaxed and enjoyable spomenik adventure possible!